Sunday, February 20, 2011

Lake Atitlan, Part II

I went with co-workers Bob and Keeley to Lake Atitlan and the market of Chicicastenango this past weekend.

It was nice having Bob's car - not only did it cut the time to the lake down by about an hour but the added flexibility of not being on a shuttle schedule was very convenient. We found a hotel with really nice beds and simple rooms (...and a rooster that crowed from 12AM to 8AM) for $5 a night. But they warned us on a poster that breaking any rules - including entering very late at night or drinking alcohol - would carry a mandatory punishment of 6 months to 2 years in prison depending on the severity of the offense.)

We rushed to Santiago on Saturday for a whirlwind tour of Maximon, a memorial for 13 civilians from Santiago murdered during the civil war, and a lookout spot over the lake. We walked the streets of Panajachel at night, using street food as dinner (gringa, tacos, cheesecake, and an Argentinian Empenada with Chimmy Churry or something on top - by far the best item I had this trip.) Then we hit up a couple bars including one popular tourist/ backpacker spot with some fire ball and chain performance and a bar partly made out of the inside of an old bus.

Today we got up early, had a cheap tipico breakfast (2.50$, drink included!) and took a boat over to San Pedro for an hour or so, getting a nice view of the central park there with it's fountain containing random marine life - crabs, fish, turtles, and one giant catfish.

Then it was off to Chichicastenango because today was market day, crossing 35 speed bumps in the 30 minute drive to the city (we counted, it was ridiculous.) The market was cool, but there was a lot of repetition/ trinkets. I'm always wary of buying/ gift buying stuff like that because you can't tell if it was hand made locally, made by machine in Guatemala, or shipped over from China (not awesome.)

On the way there and back we saw many political advertisements, mostly in the form of rocks painted a certain color. So, basically, it feels like the next president of Guatemala will be decided based on what everyone's favorite color is....

Photos on facebook

Thursday, February 3, 2011

Guatemala City Garbage Dump

2 things happened today that were a bit eye-opening. The first was that this morning the maid here asked me which check was written for 60Q and which was written for 600Q, so that we could give the correct one to the trash pick up guy. This is because she cannot read or write (and she is a grandmother.) I knew that she couldn't read or write before this, but to not be able to read the difference between 60 and 600 is... scary. Unfathomable. I don't even know....

The second thing is that I visited the city dump with Bob. Actually, we visited the (beautiful) national cemetery where there is a lookout spot over the dump. Below and all around were thousands of vultures, some flying in circles, some perched on the trash, litterally filling the air of the vast canyon beyond us. And of course the smell of the inside of your driveway garbage bin permeated the air everywhere as well.

Far, far below - at least a couple hundred feet - was the actual garbage. Trucks came in on carved paths that made their way through hills sometimes taller than these near 18-wheelers to drop off their trash. And going through the trash were hundreds of people whose daily life consisted of sorting through all the garbage to try and find stuff to resell. Those who had been scouring the dump for the longest got "first dibs" on the trucks that came from the richer areas (and therefore had the better trash.) They claimed their territory by laying a hand on the back of a truck as it came in.

The people at Safe Passage, a non-profit organization, apparently said that people had gotten HIV before from cutting themselves on used syringes/ etc. while going through the trash.

Who can imagine living this way daily? I find it impossible to comprehend, and once again I am forced to count my blessings and humbly realize how fortunate I am.